Cedric Maupillier Dishes on His French-American Mash Up in Shaw

A charming accent reveals Cedric Maupillier’s roots in the South of France. But the ambitious chef (also the force behind Adams Morgan’s ) recently became an American citizen, and the menu at his Shaw bistro borrows liberally from the cuisine of both countries. What’s the secret to his popular Franco-American blend?

Why call your restaurant ?

CM: The word spelled the same in French and English. And I was thinking of the dictionary definition of convivial – “relating to, occupied with or fond of feasting, drinking and good company.”

How would you describe what’s on the plate here?

CM: It’s a place that emphasizes the food of both my home country and my new country, the U.S. It’s democratized fine dining, but in a way that’s simplified and from the heart. These are classic recipes with a twist, and we don’t put too many fingers on the plate. We serve French bouillabaisse, but it’s made from Chesapeake blue catfish; our escargots are served in a pastry blanket [think spring rolls].

Convivial’s signature dish has turned out to be fried chicken coq au vin. What’s the scoop with that?

CM: I decided to take the best chicken dishes from both France and the U.S. It’s inspired by Korean chicken too. In this country, people need a little bit of whimsy. It gets them talking and keeps them interested.

What’s your favorite dish on the menu?

CM: I like our potato latke with dried lamb. It’s got layers of textures and flavors, starting with a crunchy potato pancake topped with shaved celery root and finished with a salty lamb prosciutto.

The bar is popular here, and well, convivial. What did you have in mind?

CM: It’s not mixology craziness, but a place where we are reintroducing classics – good Manhattans, the Grasshoppers Grandma used to love. And with wine, we just serve French and American and try to have them at good price points. Nothing’s over $100 a bottle.

What were you going for with the decor?

CM: I wanted it to be modern with no artifice. So we used clean-lined wood, comfortable chairs and lots of sound-proofing. The only things that stand out are the light fixtures, which I think look like Christmas lights every day!

What do you think about what’s happening in Shaw?

CM: I didn’t know it was on fire when I was planning Convivial. It’s such a work in progress, but in a few years, it’s just exploded. There are so many restaurants opening up, and it’s exciting. I feel like I’ve won my bet!

You also live in the neighborhood. Where do you go when you aren’t cooking here at Convivial?

CM: I get coffee every morning at . They roast the beans right in front of you. And I love to go have a beer at . When I feel a little fancy, I’ll go to the bar at Kinship and order a nice glass of wine and a couple of dishes.

DC’s hot dining scene boasts many other restaurants, including other exciting eateries in Shaw and around the city.